Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Candy from Strangers

It was Valentine's Day last week and I was out with friends in the morning.  Incidentally, Valentine's Day here in Finland is called "Friendship Day"....a concept I can get behind.  Anyway, one of my friends told me to beware of children pelting people with candy on our way back home.  Not your usual warning. So it turns out that the last day of classes was that day (or some such graduation-related situation) and it is Finnish tradition for the graduating seniors to dress up in costumes and ride around in industrial trucks throwing candy at the crowds of people gathered to watch the spectacle.  It's like a parade, but with overly excited teenagers with candy.

We weren't sure what to expect based on my friend's vague warning.  We thought that there would be random groups of teens dressed in different colored jumpers (the usual event garb for school goers) going around pelting people on the sidewalks as they went by.  We had no idea of the magnitude of this event.  It was well organized, and very well attended. It was difficult to get by on the sidewalks while the parade was in full swing, and the parade was in full swing for quite some time.

The "kids" (the older I get, the older my definition seems to get for this word) were mostly in costumes.  Some with funny hats, others in full bear, bunny, or tele tubby costumes.  It's like a mobile halloween trick or treat event, but in reverse; this time the people in costmes are giving out the candy.  Children on the sidewalks had bags with them to collect their candy, dogs were happy to investigate the food falling from the sky, and proud parents were taking pictures of their children in the trucks as they passed.

I think this is a fabulous traditon.  Clearly the people of Finland celebrate their children's graduation with a fun spirit and a lot more tradition than in the USA.  Sure, in the US we have individual parties for our graduating seniors, but nothing on this scale, and not with this much organization.  Yes, I think this is one more thing the Finns have got right.

In case you wondered, not only did I get pelted with candy, I got pelted with my favorite candy here in Finland...Dumle (a chocolate and caramel treat), and yes, I ate it.  I left the rest to the little children.  My friend and I then made our way to the champagne bar and had a little bubbly.  Now that's what I call a good Valentine's day.

Saturday, December 29, 2012

Good Times

According to my blog history I haven't written in about three months.  Boy, time flies.  I guess I have been busy.  I know I have been busy.  Still, my apologies to my readers for being so delinquent.

I know that I've been busy; I'm not entirely sure with what.  It seems like the day to day activities and club responsibilities have been keeping me on my toes.  Nothing note worthy.  At least that's how it seems.  I have gotten so comfotable here that my powers of observation are slipping.  In truth, I have done some interresting things since I last wrote. 

I have been to a celebration of  Guy Fawkes day at the British Embassy.  Basically a celebration of the man who tried (and failed) to blow up Parliment many, many years ago.  There is food, and wine, and fireworks, and great company; the highlight of the celebration is the burning of Guy Fawkes in effigy.  God, I love the Brits.  I have to say it was very festive.  The school children took great care in creating the likeness of Guy Fawkes (full size), as tradition dictates, and then a great bon fire was created and poor old Guy was placed upon the blaze.  How cool is that?

I have also been to lunch at the British Ambassador's Residence.  It was lovely.  I feel so snooty and international.  I am a member of the British Woman's Association...in case you are wondering how I am getting these opportunities.  Anyway, I never thought my life would be so interresting.  I have friends from all over the world now....Finland, Britain, Austrailia, South Africa, Germany, Canada, France, Portugal, and more.  How cool is that?

I have been to the opera to see Tosca, I have had a tour of the Fazer chocolate factory.  I met a good friend at the champaign bar on the 21st of December, the day the Mayan calandar ended, and at precicely 13:11 the world was supposed to end as well.  We talked, we watched the clock, we waited, and the world didn't end;  ah well, at least we had champaign.

I have been shopping in the Christmas Market on Senate Square....an annual event that I look forward to that is comprised of many artisans selling their crafts and food.  There are many talented people here.  I found many things I wanted to buy, some of which I did. The market closes just before Christmas, which brings me pretty much up to date. 

We spent Christmas here in Helsinki and it was beautiful. The stores are closed starting around noon on Christmas Eve, and don't reopen until the 27th.  I think this is a good policy....people sould have the opportunity to spend time with their families during the holidays.  Of course, this means that all of Helsinki is in the grocery on the 23rd to insure that they have food for the duration.  I myself joined the madness for just that reason.  I waited in line at the butcher for ten minutes.  I waited several times for the checkout lines to move so that I could get down the aisles to get what I needed, and finally I gave up on some items as it just wasn't worth the fight.  I then waited in line to checkout for over thirty minutes.  I'm not saying this doesn't happen in the States, it does.  I'm just saying it happens.

So that is what I have been doing.  All of it good times....even the shopping.  So I will have more posts to come.  I will re-hone my skills of observation and try to notice the wonders around me.  Helsinki really is an interresting place, worthy of note.  So I will note.....really I will. 

Monday, September 10, 2012

I'm Back...home

I have been having some difficulty in finding things to write about, not because Finland isn't full of fascinating topics...it is, but because I have become so comfortable here that everything seems normal.  If I wasn't sure about it before we left, I am certain of it now:  Helsinki, Finland is home.

About three weeks ago we arrived home from our month long visit to the States.  We visited family and friends and did everything that we missed doing while we have been away from America.  Mostly we ate....fast food...mostly unhealthy, and all fattening.  My husband did better than I did...he chose the healthier options in most cases.  I went for it.  Now I need a gym.

So we discovered a few things while we were in the States.  Food portions are way huge...far too much food for one person.  Here in Finland the portion sizes are smaller, more reasonable.  You order a small Coke in America and get a cup that is larger than the largest size available here in Finland.  At first, I couldn't finish anything...then I got used to it.  Did I mention I need a gym?

I also had a bit of culture shock in the first few days I was there.  The Finns are a quiet, reserved people (unless they are drinking).  In day to day contact, there is no chit chat, no extraneous talk, not a lot of background noise.  Not so in the States.  I found myself overwhelmed by the volume around me.  I guess a part of it, too, is the fact that I don't speak Finnish...it is easier to block out conversations that you can't understand.

Now I'm going to offend some people.  It wasn't just the amount and volume of the voices around me...it was the negitivity.  Americans can be very negitive.  There, I've said it.  Here's the disclaimer:  I'm not saying that ALL Americans are negitive, just that there is an overall feeling that I get when I listen to people talking.  I personally surround myself with some very positive people.  I think it's a way of talking, and relating to others, rather than a way of thinking.  What is being said is not necessarily negitive, but the way it is said is.  Americans love double negitives: "I won't not do it" could be an example of this.  We also like to commiserate with others and talk about the things that are negitive that we share, especially when it comes to work...it is a way of connecting and relating to others.  So I guess that what I am saying is that Ameicans are not negitive as a people, but are often negitive in their speech...that is what got to me while I was there.

What about the Finns?  you ask.  First of all, the Finns are a quiet, reserved people (except when they are drinking).  Sorry, I couldn't resist.  The Finns seem to me to be deliberate speakers.  They take the time to formulate what they are going to say, not being afraid of silence, and then they say things in a most direct manner.  I gave an example of what a double negitive is for the benifit of my Finnish followers...I'm not sure if they have experienced them.  Double negitives are not direct, they are less efficient when getting to the point.  They can be confusing too.  Finns are not confusing. What little instruction I had in the language taught me that they have few extraneous words in their vocabulary.  They speak efficiently, using few words.

And Finns tend to commiserate with positive things as near as I can tell..at least when they are speaking English.  My experience may be colored, though, by my inability to speak Finnish fluently.  Whatever the reason, coming home has been a joy.  Soft tones, few words, and positive inflection.  I love America, but I enjoy it here too. Finland is home now, and I guess that is good since I live here.  I miss my friends and family, who I love, but am enjoying my new friends and way of life here too.  The bottom line is:  I'm back...home.

Monday, June 25, 2012

Mid-Summer Celebration

We just got back from our friend's summer house/cottage and our celebration of Mid-Summer.  We had a fun and educational time, experiencing both Finnish tradition and hospitality.  It was a beautiful drive to the lake...the furthest north either my husband or I have gone.  I had recently wondered about the Finnish countryside as I flew over coming back from vacation.  Everything looked green and lush, and there were lakes from what I could see in the airplane.  Driving to the lake I was able to see it up close for myself.

There were vibrant wildflowers dotting the countryside as we drove, and in just a little over an hour we arrived at our friend's lake house.  I have heard that the Finns disappear to their lakehouses every weekend in the summer, and then during the weeks of July when everybody is off of work.  It is typical in Europe (so I am told) for there to be a month (typically July or August) when the country is "closed down" and people are on vacation.  In Finland it is July.  For the record, I now understand why the Finns disappear to their cottages.  Not far from the city, they are beautiful and quiet and offer the perfect get away from the stresses of work.  Have I metioned that the Finns have the work/life balance thing right?  They do.

So our arrival at the lake was greeted with a warm welcome and a tour of the cottage, sauna house, and toilets.  You wouldn't think that the toilets would be a part of the tour, but they required instruction and were located outside the house.  They were electric, I think.  They burn waste when they are "flushed."  It's rather ingenious, actually....and a little scary...but mostly ingenious.

We were shown around a two story A-frame cabin with two bedrooms, a kitchen, and a main room.  there was sleeping for eight if you used the two pull out sofas.  And no doors.  Did I mention there were no doors?  Very efficient.  And cozy...and wonderful.  The perfect get-away for the weekend.  You'll notice I didn't mention a bathroom.  There was none in the house.

BUT there was a sauna in a separate, smaller cabin.  It had a changing room and a sauna room, and a nice front porch.  There was a barrel for hot water and a barrel for cold in the sauna room, and that was where you could "shower" manually...no running water or shower head, but any port in a storm....

We sat on the deck over looking the water while we waited for the other visiting couple to arrive..they too are American ex-pats.  We were all looking forward to celebrating mid-summer in Finland at a true Finnish summer house with Finns.  And our hosts were perfect.  They were welcoming and eager to share their house and traditions with us.   It looked like rain, and in order to assure we would be able to grill, we reversed the order of our meals and had sausages at lunch time.  Had the weather cooperated we would have started with the more traditional main meal (also grilled if possible) and then capped off the evening with the sausages.   We decided not to reverse the order of the celbratory drinks and enjoyed a perfect bottle of champaign with our noon meal.  After lunch they took us for a walk around the lake to a public accesss beach from where we then rowed a small boat back to the house.  I say "we"...in fact it was my husband who hasn't rowed a boat for decades.  He got me wet; at first it was an accident, then it was just for fun...his fun.  Anyway, it was a nice outing and, aside from the mosquitos (mosquitos are apprarently universal), a perfect start to the days festivities.

Our next experience was the sauna.  They women went first, and yes (for those who are wondering), it was a traditional sauna during which clothing is not worn.  We enjoyed the heat of the sauna and then went for a refreshing swim in the lake (also sans clothes). We then returned to the sauna, enjoyed the heat once again, "showered" and sat on the porch.  It was then the men's turn and the ladies returned to the house to enjoy a refreshing hard cider.  

Traditionally, and not suprisngly, mid-summer is a drinking holiday.  We enjoyed a number of alcoholic beverages, but did not go overboard.  The time came for our evening meal, and we enjoyed a first course of herring (three varieties), salad, and new potatoes. Please note that I use the word "we" loosely and I myself wouldn't touch herring with a ten foot pole.  I'm sure I am missing out on a fabulous treat, but I'm willing to risk it.  Accompanying the first course was a round (or two or three) of schnapps and Finnish drinking songs.  It was a real treat to share in this tradition as our hosts sang the songs and we dutifully downed our shots.  It turns out that we were supposed to sip our shots with all but one of the songs, but I mistakenly drank them all in just one shot...oops.  Anyway, our next course was "meat."   In this case, lamb, and it was perfectly cooked and delicious.  We enjoyed each other's company, stories of our own traditions, and Finnish music.  Everything was perfect.  Finally it was time for bed, and we ll went to our respective sleeping quarters.

In the morning I was the first up and decided to read on the porch.  The lake had a mist rising from it, the birds were singing, and it was a glorious morning.  Soon after I was joined by the others and the wonderful aroma of coffee.  We sat and talked and had a traditional breakfast of bread with lunch meat and cheeses.  Have I ever mentioned that the Finns have an odd concept of breakfast?  They do.  But it was nice, and we slowly wound down the weekend and got ready to drive home.

So that was mid-summer.  A relaxing and fun weekend for all.  My thanks to our hosts, who could not have been more gracious, for welcoming us into their private lives and sharing their traditions with us.  It is an experience we will not forget.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

I'm Still Alive Part Two

How apt was the title of my last post?  My sister in Michigan e-mailed me a week ago to ask if I was still alive at this point in time.  I have indeed been absent from my writting and am again sorry.  I got back two weeks ago from a cruise to the Caribbean with a dear friend and have been re-adjusting and doing laundry ever since.  It sems that laundry is never done...even with just two people in the household.  I can only imagine what a family of six (like my sister's) would generate.  But I digress.

I was away, and now I am settled back in here in Helsinki.  It is odd how where you live becomes home and the norm of your living.  I found that while in the States (for a few days before the cruise) I was shocked by people talking to me in elevators and in lines at the stores.  Finns pretty much keep to themselves and don't talk unless specifically spoken to.  It's not that they are cold, it is just their way, and I have gotten used to it.  I won't say I like it better here, just that it is different.  Anyway, I found myself having to get used to the social differences again, but in reverse.  I found myself excited by the strangest things...like chicken fingers and breakfast food, and people saying "please."

So now I am re-adjusted and back into my routine.  It is mid-summer celebration...I think that's what it is.... here in Finland.  Things will close early tomorrow and be closed on Saturday.  People will celebrate this weekend.  The Finns love to celebrate.  I love to celebrate with the Finns. 

We have been invited over to a friend's summer house this weekend, something I have hoped to experience while we are here.  The Finns really have the work/life balance thing figured out and I am told that most have summer houses that they go to in the summer...especially July when the country goes on vacation.  The city is likely to be a ghost town filled mostly with tourists during this time, and this is the weekend that it starts.  I am excited to celebrate this time with Finnish friends so that we can do it right.  It is an honor to be invited.  I don't know what to expect, but I will surely report on it when we get back.

Well, that's it for now.  I have to go get ready for my weekend....

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

I'm Still Alive

For those of you who wondered, yes, I'm still alive.  It may not seem like it given the lack of posts lately, but I have been busy and traveling and have not taken the time to write.  So, now I can update you on what's been going on. 

The snow is gone...I think for good this season, but you never know...this is Finland.  The weather has been beautiful and I have been taking walks along the coast.  It is like Helsinki has come alive again.  People are out and active, the cafes and resturants have their tables outside now, and the outdoor market is in full swing.  There are tour busses everywhere...including my neighborhood.  Imagine that;  I live in a tourist area. People pay money to see where I live!  I feel rather special now.

I have also been traveling.  I have been to Italy, Greece, Croatia, and Estonia.  Not bad for a simple housewife.  Everywhere I visited was beautiul.  I saw the Parthanon in Athens and was amazed by its grandure.  I saw the windmills and winding streets of white houses and shops in Mykonos and the old fort of Dubrovnik.  I went to the old town in Tallin and had a meal that was medevil...a little too medevil for my taste, but good none-the-less.  It has been a whirlwind tour and I love it.  In just over a week I am going to the Caribbean with a friend.  Finally my passport is getting a proper workout.

So that has been my life for the past few weeks.  I have been busy and well traveled.  Oh, and I got a delightful compliment while in Mykonos, Greece.  My travel companions and I were at a little bar on the island where it was decided that we should try uzo (not sure of the spelling).  Anyway, I don't like the flavor of anise, so decided to get a shot of Tequilla instead.  The waiter semed suprized by my order, did a double take at me, and asked if I wanted something strong.  I said yes, and he said he would take care of me.  What he brought was indeed strong (it was Raki for those who are interrested) and it was quite good.  But I digress.  The compliment that he gave was in asking if we were all Scandinavian.  He was quite sure that we were from Finland or Sweden.... despite the lack of accent, apparently.  I take that as a compliment.  I like the people of Finland and am proud to be taken for one.  Of course here in Helsinki I am sure that I stick out as an American, but I'll take the compliment just the same.

I will do my best to post more regularly, but will be traveling on and off.  Please be patient and I will try to make it worth your while.  I'm sure there is much more for me to see and do and write about.  Helsinki is an amazing city and I have just begun to explore it. 

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Vappu (May Day)

So we went out last night to see what this Vappu Eve thing is all about.  For those who aren't familiar with the word "Vappu," it is the Finnish word for May Day, the first day of May.  It is a big thing here;  most places are closed and people have the day off.  Good thing too, because people surely know how to celebrate Vappu Eve and would probably be loathe to go to work the next morning.

Vappu Eve is basically a celebration of graduation and the coming/start of spring.  Graduates of the current year wear colorful jumpsuits with patches on them all day (and in some cases all week).  The colors and patches indicate where they have graduated from and with what degree. Masters degrees wear large tassles, like the size you'd find on curtain tie-backs.  The patches are also to show "sponsorship" and are used to raise funds for something (didn't catch that detail).  All graduates wear hats that look pretty much like a ship captain's cap.  This includes past graduates, and we could see some very old, yellowing caps on a few of the older population.

They sell all sorts of colorful things to wear on your head as well as candy, food and balloons.  Also available, we were told, were dirty joke books sold by the graduates.  One of my husband's co-workers asked us to pick one up for him...too bad it is in Finnish.

So the big event on Vappu Eve is the washing and capping of the "naked lady statue" in Helsinki.  It has a proper name, but I can never remember it, and if you google "naked lady statue Helsinki" it will come up.  Anyway, a good number of graduate students are dangled over the statue by a crane and are lowered down to give her a good scrub and to place a cap on her head.  The cap reportedly does not stay on long before it is stolen.  Well, we live about two to three blocks from the statue and went to see the festivities and fight the crowds.  There were hoards of people and we were all keen to see the tradition play out.  It seemed to us, though that they only capped the statue and forewent the scrubbing.  The cap stayed on as long as we were there, which was quite a while.  A bit confused, but not dissapointed, we headed off to finish our champaign and get some dinner.

Did I mention there was champaign?  Yes, this is an integral part of the tradition.  Everybody brings champaign and drinks it there on the street as they celebrate.  It is illegal to drink alcohol on the streets of Helsinki, but it is pretty much tolerated by the police on Vappu Eve the same way that public nudity is tolerated in the streets of New Orleans during Mardi Gras ( females lifting their shirts to earn beads).  As long as you don't cause any trouble, the pollisi look the other way.

Well, Vappu Eve is over now and we are having a quiet Vappu day today.  We could have gone to a certain park with a picnic this morning, but decided to sleep in after our late night.  We had a great time and are quite blessed to live where we do.  Helsinki rocks!

Oh, and by the way, the coffee house accross the street finally put out its tables and is open for business.